A Quiet Sunday in Villefranche-sur-Mer: Chasing Light, Coffee, and Serendipity
If you’ve ever dreamed of stumbling upon a postcard-perfect town on the French Riviera, one without the flash of Monaco or the crowds of Nice, Villefranche-sur-Mer is the one. Tucked into a steep bay east of Nice, this little fishing village has long drawn artists, royals, and wide-eyed wanderers. Even Empress Alexandra Fedorovna of Russia, wife of Nicholas II, fell in love with it. Her legacy lingers in the town today, literally: Rue de l'Impératrice Alexandra winds quietly through the hills in her name.
As for me, I was up before dawn, leaving Melissa still wrapped in blankets at our AirBnB. I hopped the first train out of Nice’s main station, thinking I’d beat the crowds to the Sunday market in Villefranche. Seven minutes later, I stepped off the train and into silence. The newly renovated station looked sharp, and completely abandoned. No signage. No people. Just a long stretch of track and a very confusing construction site. I looped the station twice like a clueless tourist before spotting a sliver of red carpet lining a hidden path. I followed it blindly, up over the tracks, through some back alleys, and finally, after a few turns and one hopeful sign, I found myself above the bay, staring out over one of the most breathtaking harbors in the Mediterranean.
Villefranche is built vertically. It climbs up the cliffs like a pastel mosaic, with the old town (la vieille-ville) draped in hues of peach, coral, and goldenrod, and laced with narrow alleys. The town’s history stretches back to 1295, when Charles II of Anjou made it a “free port” (hence the name Villefranche), encouraging merchants and sailors to settle tax-free. It worked. Over centuries, the bay became one of the deepest natural harbors in the region, drawing in the French navy, foreign warships, and even a few wandering emperors.
I wandered the outskirts of the old town while the rest of the Riviera slept. Golden light was spilling over the tiled rooftops and I stopped for a photo every 30 seconds or so. Finally, I made my way down to the promenade to shoot along the sea and eventually landed at Lou Bantry, the only café open at that hour. Naturally, I chose a table right on the seawall. Waves were crashing up and over my feet as I settled into a table and texted Melissa a photo of the scene. Minutes later, I spotted her walking my way, dodging the water pooling on the stone promenade. We shared a typical French breakfast—café crème, tartines, and orange juice—with the sea licking our toes. Could we have moved? Sure. But what’s a little water threatening to soak your shoes when you’re literally sitting inside of a postcard?
After breakfast, we explored the town again. Every last alley, staircase, tiny square. Villefranche felt like ours for the morning. The market was a modest lineup of antiques, more sleepy than lively, but it was perfect in its quiet way. I’m always happy to trade high season energy for off-season intimacy. Sweater weather, fewer people, more soul.
At the far end of the village, we stumbled onto Fort Saint-Elme, an imposing 16th-century fortress built by the Duke of Savoy to protect the bay from pirates and invaders. The citadel was later used by the French military, and during World War II, it was occupied by the Germans. Today it holds the town hall, museums, and one of the best views in town. I lingered here, taking photos, but what I was really looking for was the way over to the other, larger port. I could see it on the map, but I couldn’t figure out how to access the road.
Turns out, we weren’t looking for a road. Finally, we stumbled upon the real gem of this little village: the chemin de ronde, a hidden coastal trail that loops around the base of the citadel. It’s easy to miss, but if you refuse to give up, you’ll find it. The trail hugs the rocks and reveals one of the most spectacular vistas in town, an uninterrupted view of the port, with bobbing boats and old stone walls rising behind them. This is the kind of place that doesn’t just ask to be photographed. It begs.
Melissa and I followed the path around to the second harbor, where fishing boats clinked and locals chatted along the water. After an hour or so, we made out way back along the path. Melissa headed back to Nice, but I was not quite ready to say goodbye. Villefranche had finally woken up. Locals were filling up the cafés, the sun was bouncing off the sea, and I parked myself back near the promenade for a little street photography.
That’s when I met Jean Paul, a fisherman who noticed me eyeing the harbor. In true French style, he struck up a conversation. In French. I’m barely A2 on a good day, but we spoke for half an hour, weaving through talk of family, fishing, and travel. These are the moments I chase in France. Genuine, warm connections with people who live in the places we photograph, and a chance to practice my French with patient locals who can’t switch to English. Before he left, I asked to take his portrait, and we exchanged Instagram handles like old friends. It was one of those rare, unrepeatable travel moments that make every awkward verb conjugation worth it.
I said adieu to Jean Paul, planning to walk the coastal path around Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, but the clouds were gathering and my stomach wasn’t exactly enthusiastic on the heals of my bout of food poisoning. So I wandered, checked out menus I couldn’t commit to, took a few more photos, and caught the train home with salt in my hair and a smile on my face.
Tips for Visiting Villefranche-sur-Mer:
Getting There: The TER train from Gare de Nice-Ville takes just 7 minutes. Be prepared for a station without signs—just follow the red carpet path across the tracks and into town.
When to Go: Early morning is magical, especially in shoulder season (spring/fall). You’ll beat the crowds and catch the best light.
Don’t Miss: The Fort Saint-Elme for history and views, the chemin de ronde for a secret walk along the sea, and a coffee at Lou Bantry, where the Mediterranean comes to your toes.
Have you ever wandered into a town that completely surprised you? Or found a hidden gem while following your instincts instead of a map? I’d love to hear about it in the comments. And if you’ve been to Villefranche-sur-Mer, drop your favorite spot below. I’m already dreaming of my next visit.
