A Solo Weekend in Rouen: History, Heat, and Hidden Gems
After two days of sweltering in a Paris apart-hotel with a broken air conditioner, I reached my limit. Paris in September wasn’t supposed to feel like Florida, and yet there I was, sticking to the sheets at night, my sleep broken by the hum of a futile little fan. I had planned to escape the city for a weekend in Rouen anyway, but now it felt more like an evacuation. Before catching my train, I messaged my Airbnb host to make sure the air conditioning in my next rental was up and running. Her reply was swift and horrifying: the apartment had no A/C.
The listing had claimed otherwise. She tried to convince me that I wouldn’t need a/c in Rouen, but the forecast said highs in the 90’s and I canceled immediately. In a moment of sheer desperation, I found a last-minute room at Hotel Paulette, a small but air-conditioned hotel in the heart of Rouen. I booked it without a second thought and dashed to Gare Saint-Lazare, where I caught the train to Normandy.
Getting to Rouen from Paris
The train ride from Paris to Rouen is one of the easiest and most scenic short trips from the capital. Trains depart regularly from Gare Saint-Lazare, taking around 1 hour and 20 minutes to reach Rouen’s Rive Droite station. The journey is comfortable, the countryside rolling past in a blur of green fields and quiet villages. No reservations are required for most trains, making it an stress-free, spontaneous getaway from Paris. Though I am a planner and had booked my train on the SNCF Connect app months in advance
When I arrived in Rouen, the heat was indeed relentless. The city, known for its half-timbered medieval houses, Gothic churches, and rich history, looked more inviting than it felt at that moment. I took an Uber to my hotel, a decision I later realized was completely unnecessary—Rouen is much smaller and far more walkable than I had expected.
Finding My Rhythm in Rouen
My room at Hotel Paulette was tiny, but honestly, I can’t say enough good things about the hotel and the staff. It was adorable, clean, and it had what I needed most: gloriously cold air conditioning. I cranked it down, stretched out on the bed, and drifted into a much-needed nap. I almost never slow down while traveling, but between the heat and the fact that I was only ten weeks out from major surgery, I was feeling more drained than usual.
By early evening, I forced myself up and out. I had laundry to do—one of the realities of traveling light—and once that was sorted, I rewarded myself with pizza. Not the most Norman of meals, but at that moment, I was seeking sustenance, not a culinary experience.
A Walk Through History
The next morning, I was up early, as always. I love solo travel, but being alone does get lonely. I discovered the VoiceMap app on this trip and audio walking tours have become one of my favorite things to do while traveling. Having a guided walk with a narrator in my ear is an instant cure for loneliness or feeling a little out of place. They guide me through cities with historical insights, storytelling, and architectural details that I’d otherwise miss. But the best part is how they help me get my bearings in a new place without having to consult the map on my phone all the time.
Rouen is a city that wears its history on its sleeve. It was here that Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431, condemned as a heretic by an English-backed court. It was here that Claude Monet painted his famous series of the Rouen Cathedral, capturing how the light transformed the façade throughout the day. And it was here that Gustave Flaubert, author of Madame Bovary, was born, though I ultimately skipped his museum due to the heat.
I spent the rest of the day in a mix of purposeful wandering and blissful idleness. The churches, blessedly cool despite the relentless heat, became my sanctuaries. I sat in the vast Rouen Cathedral, staring up at its soaring spires, feeling small in the best possible way. The Gros Horloge, Rouen’s medieval astronomical clock, stood like a golden relic from another time, while the Palais de Justice, with its gothic grandeur and unexpected Lego art installation, felt both imposing and whimsical at once.
At lunch, I found a quiet spot in an old plague cemetery—because nothing says “solo travel” like eating alone in a historic burial ground. The cemetery, Aître Saint-Maclou, dates back to the Great Plague of 1348, and its eerie, carved wooden beams are decorated with skulls and bones. These days, it’s a peaceful, open-air courtyard rather than a place of mourning, but its dark history lingers in the air.
For dinner, I decided to embrace Normandy’s culinary traditions. I found my way to Kerso, just off the main historic square, where I ordered a savory galette and followed it up with a sweet crêpe. A classic Breton meal in the heart of Rouen.
A Morning by the River
On my final morning, I rose early again, eager to soak in a little more of Rouen before moving on. I strolled along the Seine, watching as the city slowly woke up. Unlike Paris, where the riverbanks are a hive of activity at all hours, Rouen’s stretch of the Seine felt peaceful and unhurried.
I revisited St. Maclou, a beautiful example of Flamboyant Gothic architecture, and of course, I couldn’t leave without one last look at Rouen Cathedral, Monet’s muse. Despite how many times I stood infront of it, I failed to take a picture of the cathedral’s facade. At least with my real camera. I’m sure I have a picture or video on my phone.
Final Thoughts & Fun Facts
Rouen was nothing like I had expected. I had imagined a sprawling city, but it turned out to be compact and highly walkable. I had pictured cool autumn breezes, but instead, I got a heatwave that had me hiding in churches. I had planned to visit museums, but instead, I found myself simply wandering, absorbing the city's past through its streets and squares.
A few fun facts I picked up along the way:
Rouen was once the second-largest city in France, behind Paris, during the Middle Ages.
The city's timber-framed houses lean precariously over its streets, some so much that they nearly touch.
During WWII, Rouen suffered heavy bombings, but miraculously, many of its historic buildings survived.
The Joan of Arc Church, a modern structure in the historic square where she was executed, was built in 1979and is unlike any other church in the city.
Flaubert’s father was an obstetrician, and the Flaubert Museum is housed in their former family home, largely dedicated to the history of medicine. As a birth photographer, I was keen to visit, but I just couldn’t muster the energy this time.
Rouen is known as the "City of 100 Spires," a title coined by Victor Hugo, thanks to its stunning collection of Gothic churches that dominate the skyline.
Overall, as a solo female traveler, I felt very safe in Rouen. My last minute hotel was on the outskirts of the old town in a less nice area than I would have preferred, but I never felt uneasy walking alone in the early morning. Though it was in a less trafficked area and I didn’t risk walking around after dark.
Rouen can be done in a day trip from Paris, bit I would encourage you to give it at least an overnight stay. She is a city that deserves to be experienced slowly, whether by wandering its medieval streets, lingering in its cathedrals, sitting on a café terrace with a view, or exploring along the Seine. I could have stayed longer (I could always stay longer!), but two nights gave me two quiet mornings to explore and I didn’t feel like I missed too much.
From here, it was time for me to catch my train to Cabourg, another Normandy town with a completely different vibe. But as I left Rouen behind, I knew one thing for sure: I would be back—hopefully in cooler weather.
